PARIS GUIDE

Paris is a city best explored on foot. My recent trips have seen me wander endlessly and happily. Here is a curated list of my favourite places; must see shops, specialty food stores and, most importantly, restaurants. One or two of my recently visited hotels that I adore also make an appearance. 

The list has been created by arrondissement (suburb) so you can refer to this list wherever you find yourself. I’ve also pinned these locations on a custom Google map.

NB: While I have updated this list in 2022, I didn’t get back to each venue on that trip. I highly recommend that you look these up before you visit, as some of these venues may have closed due to Covid. I have highlighted my 2022 must go-to places in Pink.

1st ARRONDISSEMENT

Hotel:

About: A tribute to the Parisian art de vivre. Chateau Voltaire has a unique architecture and interior design, a magnificent restaurant and bar.

Restaurants – Nice décor/good food:

About: Incredible location!  The atmosphere of the KONG bar entwines both the intimate character of a cocktail bar with the refinement and elegance of a luxury hotel bar.

About: The new restaurant at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs boasts a unique and privileged location in the heart of the Palais du Louvre. LOULOU offers her friends the pleasure of an urban and enchanted interlude to ‘nibble’, ‘lunch’, ‘take tea’, ‘sip’ or ‘dance’.

About: At Kunitoraya, if you are new to Udon (and who will soon become addicted to it), the Tempura-Udon with shrimp fritters in a hot soup or Kitsune-Udon (for those who do not like shrimp) with fried soy paste, ginger, sesame and chive. Then, to you fans of Udon, we recommend of course the Kunitora-Udon with its slice of pork, radishes and salsify, all in a hot soup made of Miso.

About: La Poule au Pot is a looker. It’s wonderful to walk in and witness the vintage wallpaper, the globe lighting, and the silver-plated serving chariot wheeling between Pepto-Bismol colored tables. It is at once a little elegant and also a touch cheesy. One can almost picture the 80s pop stars who used to slouch into these red banquettes, the mirrored pillars reflecting their manliner and sprayed hair.

About: Great place in a nice neighbourhood. Cosy with great interior design and great cocktails. One of my personal favourites in this arrondissement. 

About: A family-friendly restaurant and bar serving South American flavours. Great tacos, tapas and sliced meats.

About: Inventive bistro dishes with Asian influences served in a genteel restaurant with sidewalk tables.

About: Located in the heart of the capital, opposite the Tuileries Gardens, Chez Flottes is a family brasserie in the Art Nouveau style. The decor is enchanting, the stained glass windows, the woodwork, the subdued lights reveal a cozy and intimate atmosphere. They offer traditional cuisine of French brasseries, salads, croque-gentlemen, a selection of meat, fish and pasta. 

About: Gambino is an Italian restaurant that has the feel of an Italian countryside with its stone walls and exposed beams. The menu changes regularly. There’s generously served pasta dishes, beautiful salads and desserts. 

Shopping:

About: Inspired by the 90’s hip-hop and skate culture, Starcow offers a sharp selection of limited collaborations from brands like Nike, Adidas, Arcteryx as well as independent labels like Fuct, Freshjive and Chinatown Market. 

About: Maison Chanel is the birthplace of Chanel as we know it today. The building, which still serves as a Chanel atelier, was the original site of Coco Chanel’s offices and the first Chanel showroom equipped with its own runway. Karl Lagerfeld also worked out of Coco’s offices during his time with the eminent brand. The boutique opened in 1918 after Coco purchased an entire building at 31 Rue Cambon to accommodate her growing business. The building comprises several floors that include a boutique, a large gallery room that was used for fashion shows and fittings, the famous mirrored staircase that led to Coco’s private apartment, and her work studio and office which are still used today.

Apart from Chanel and Longchamp, you’ll find a host of flagship stores from various luxury brands on Rue Saint-Honoré. Labels like Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Yves Saint-Laurent can all be found on this street.  During my 2022 visit it was Goyard that has the most people lining up.

About: The Place Vendôme is one of the city’s most famous and beautiful neoclassical squares. Completely surrounded by sober buildings, it currently houses some of the most famous high-end stores, such as, Dior, Chanel or Cartier.

About: A journey through the commune of craftswomen and craftsmen who contribute to and shape le labo’s world… from the wood maker to the metal worker to the candle pourer to the lab technician to the rose picker to the illustrator… and oh yes, to the perfumer too !

About: Acne Studios is a Stockholm-based fashion house with a multidisciplinary approach. Through founder and Creative Director Jonny Johansson’s interest in photography, art, architecture and contemporary culture, an alternative path has been found, turning Acne Studios into a well-respected creator of ready-to-wear, magazines, furniture, books and exhibitions.

About: In a historical venue.  Create your own wine in a 2-hour workshop. Les Caves du Louvre, offers wine tasting tour in an authentic wine cellar close to The Louvre.

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT

Dining:

About: Bistrot Vivienne looks like an old Parisian bistro with its mirrors, wall seats, wooden tables and chimney. Enjoy seasonal and traditional cuisine.

About: A popular, old school bistro serving classics like frisée au lardons, jambon persillée, escargot, and tarte tatin.

About: Something very simple, a bit hipster. Small israelienne cantine, delicious. They do not take reservations.  Chipped plates and organised chaos reign at Yariv Berreby’s overflowing sardine-tin-sized eatery. It takes its name from the Hebrew word for salad, and you’d be remiss not to try the eponymous mixed plate (eggplant caviar, pickled red cabbage, hummus etc). But don’t overlook the sandwiches, limonana (iced mint lemonade) or Wednesday’s chicken schnitzel. If you can’t get a seat, the takeaway window beckons. 

About: Italian, super nice cocktail bar in the back of the restaurant). Food: Italian, Pizza, Mediterranean, European, Vegetarian Friendly, Vegan Options

About: Really good Lebanese food. LIZA is the expression of a tasteful lifestyle from Beirut to Paris, Contemporary comfort cuisine prepared with love, time and delicious fresh produce.

About: Comprised of a main brasserie and courtyard spaces, Rivié, offers all-day French-inspired dishes made with the best local ingredients, along with some Hoxton comfort food classics — think mac and cheese and truffle fries.

About: Wine Bar, bistronomical tapas, located in a gorgeous side street in the historic Montorgueil quarter in the 2nd arrondissement.  One of my personal favourites.

About: Located in the heart of Paris, in a 1900 setting, a good classic with a kitchen in the trend.

Shopping:

About: Must-see locations to shop and discover the world of Sézane. Discover leather goods, ready-to-wear pieces, shoes, accessories, jewelry and the lifestyle selection that changes from season to season!

This arrondissement has become a bit of a tech hub and has ever changing retail options.  You must visit the sneaker store.

About: If you’re anything like me, and fabrics and homewares are on your list you must wander into Pierre Frey. Founded in 1935, Maison Pierre Frey creates and produces fabrics by taking inspiration from classical and contemporary art or from faraway ethnic groups, always interpreting it in a very French style. This artistic sensitivity led the company to acquire the Braquenié, Boussac, Fadini Borghi and Le Manach textile companies in the nineties, making it possible to offer customers styles that range from classic to contemporary.

About: At SNS you will find the latest hard-to find sneaker releases such as adidas, Nike x Off-White, NikeLab Collections, adidas Consortium.

You will also find a curated assortment of brands such as Aries, Needles, Perks and Mini, South2 West8, ByBorre, Thisisneverthat, The North Face and of course your most classic sneaker silhouettes such as Nike Air Force 1, Nike Air Max 1, Air Jordan 1, Converse All Star, adidas Stan Smith, adidas Campus, Puma Suede, all classics from New Balance and much more.

3rd ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurants – Nice décor/good food:

About: The Bohemians Canteen. Late night food, outdoor seating and cosy

About: Breakfast, Outdoor seating and great cocktails

Bars:

About: This cocktail bar is run by award-winning bartender Remy Savage. With its art nouveau concept and modern craft cocktails, this intimate space captured the attention of many.

Ideal for Lunch:

About: Very trendy and healthy – The neighborhood is great, you can stroll to the rue de Bretagne and walk to Le Marais. You can also visit the Marché des Enfants rouges nearby. Season has built its identity on a basic rule of nutrition: fresh produce cannot be consumed all year round. That’s why the menu lives at the rhythm of the seasons and is renewed every three months. From kefta dumplings to pastrami sandwich, to naan, Season offers a cuisine open to the world, healthy and revisited with a touch of French flair

About: If you’re looking for a great crepe experience, you should try Breizh Cafe in Le Marais. A quaint and cozy restaurant, you’ll not be lingering, but the energy level is high and the food is well matched.

About: Super cool place and good spot for photos, hip attached shop and has a scandi/australian vibe. The Broken Arm Café differs from the recent spate of Aussie-owned coffee shops in Paris by sourcing their beans from the opposite climate — Solberg & Hansen, a coffee supplier and roaster from Norway. 

About: Vegan and really down to earth. Bob’s Juice Bar, Bob’s Kitchen, Bob’s Cold Press, Bob’s Bake Shop… a lot of different possibilities to have a healthy meal or taste your very own juice creation. Bob’s Kitchen is a small restaurant and a favorite for the vegetarians and health buffs. 

About: cute little ‘IT” cafe! Ob-La-Di might be the most Instagrammed café of the 2015 rentrée, but there’s real substance at this stylish spot in the Haut Marais. Most of the baked goods are made in-house, and many of them manage to be vegan and gluten-free, and still actually taste good. Coffee is expertly prepared with Lomi beans by Lloyd, formerly of Boot Café, who also curates a killer playlist most days. 

About: While you make a visit to the store. Opening onto a small garden, the canteen offers a balanced and healthy lunch everyday. You will find fresh produce vegetables, and vitamin packed fruit cocktails: a varied menu based on the seasons offerings and the temptation to give in to the delicious homemade desserts. 

About: Their pastries are insanely delicious. The service and the decor are wonderful.

About: Hip bar in Le Marais. A Neighborhood favorite that also plays host to Fashion Week parties and local gallery opening events.

Shopping:

About: A modern institution – cafe/bookshop/homewares/clothes.

About: I guess the other cult store, with Colette closed. Amazing high fashion Korean fashion store. Beautiful interior design and a great selection of cloth from awesome brands for both men and women.

About: The space of the rue de Sévigné, in the heart of the marsh, is a work of art in itself, jointly created with the Belgian artist Arne Quinze. A bright antechamber serves as a showcase for a collection of niche fragrances, inviting visitors to leave the sounds and distractions of the street behind them, while exalting their senses. By entering the main room, visitors discover a unique environment: two tons of wooden planks set in a complex and organic architecture, and 147 screens offer as many surprises. Hidden behind moving walls, blurring lines between illusion and reality, the men’s and women’s collections appear.

4th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurants:

About: Known as one of the most beautiful brasseries in Paris, Bofinger serves brewery, traditional French, and Alsatian specialities. The restaurant is open late in the evening for after show dinners.

About:  Jaja offers a creative, seasonal menu and organic wines. You can chill in the miniature terrace or under the large old-fashioned glass roof. It’s a piece of countryside in the heart of Paris. You won’t find any tourists in here. A great escape from the tourists and keen shoppers outside. 

Shopping:

About: The fashionable Marais district in the 4th arrondissement, also known as SoMa (South Marais), is filled with hip boutiques, galleries, and gay bars. Once the city’s Jewish quarter, the area still hosts numerous kosher restaurants. The grassy Place des Vosges is home to elegant arcades and the Musée Victor Hugo, where the writer lived. Streets around Saint-Paul metro lead to the Maison Européenne de la Photographie.

About: Located in the heart of the Marais, Fleux is the Parisian concept-store of reference since its creation in 2005. Granting a privileged place to lifestyle, design and decoration, its six shops established on 1500 square meters reveal an open and sharp selection : furniture, lighting, tableware, fashion accessories or high-tech … The objects offered mix styles and inspirations from around the world. Introducing novelties every week, Fleux rhythms his proposal through a singular look, a state of mind rhyming with curiosity, discovery and freedom. To share with you a sensitive and poetic philosophy.

Museum:

About: Sculpture by Constantin Brancusi displayed in his former studio, left to the state in 1957.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT

Hotel:

About: A favourite address, jealously guarded by artists, Parisian lovers and all lovers of Paris who seek the friendly atmosphere of a family home with the refinement and attentive service of the very best luxury hotels. 

Bars and Restaurants:

About: Over in St Germain is a cool place for drinks. Since 2009, Beaumarly breathes a wind of renewal in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, reinventing the neighborhood with the aptly named Germain. Blue, yellow, green, the colors are orchestrated by the great India Mahdavi that mixes genres and eras. Avant-garde, the giant statue of Xavier Veilhan illuminates the space and crosses the ceiling to reappear on the floor, where a billiard room awaits

About: Cozy, trendy and select. The cocktail is a little expensive but creative and delicious. You will find it difficult to return to the eternal mojitos and caipirinhas after having tasted a Mazarine, specialty of the house (champagne and red fruits). The decor made of brick wall, soft lighting, lamps in the shape of bowler hat and library of old books connected to the floor, not lacking in charm.

About: Good service, cozy atmosphere both terrasse and indoors, lovely rosé. I always wind my way back to this bar – it’s nothing super special but feels a little less touristy in an area that can be packed with tourists. 

About: Malongo is a Barista workshop located just a stone’s throw from Notre Dame de Paris cathedral. Try out their selection of croissants and coffee. 

About: Loved the tapas and wine. This contemporary wine bar and restaurant offers organic wine with over 400 varieties from local producers. 

About: Stylish semi-retro and semi-modern cafe with terrace tables, for classic dishes like snails & tartare, plus late-night drinks.

About: Serves traditional brasserie cuisine. Famous specialities are Bismark herring, brandade de morue, choucroute garnie, roast chicken, blanquette de veau and tête de veau.

About: Whether you prefer the definitive gastronomic stylings of a French brasserie, or indeed the simple pleasure of a not-so-humble drink as you are surrounded by art, the Lutetia is by far the best choice on the Left Bank.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurants:

About: Australian owned. A coffee Roasting house. Has 7 specialty establishments in Paris and Geneva

Arpège

Location: 84 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris
Tel: 33 1 47 05 09 06
Website: https://www.alain-passard.com/
Hours: Monday – Friday 12PM – 2:30PM and 7:30PM – 10:30PM

About: A 3 Michelin Star restaurant with menus guided by the seasons. Every ingredient comes from experts that they know and trust and vegetables are grown in the restaurant’s kitchen gardens.

To Visit:

About: Major 19th- & 20th-century European art collections housed in a monumental, former railway station.

About: 18th-century mansion & sculpture garden displaying Rodin’s influential works, such as The Thinker.

Shopping:

About: Upmarket 19th-century mall for designer apparel, housewares, beauty products & gourmet groceries.

8th ARRONDISSEMENT

Dining:

About: Just off glitzy Avenue Montaigne, Chez Savy’s Art Deco cream-and-burgundy interior is blissfully intact, occupying its own circa-1930s microcosm. Fill up on rib-sticking specialties from the Aveyron region of central France—lentil salad with bacon, foie gras (prepared on the premises), perfectly charred lamb with featherlight shoestring frites, and pedigreed Charolais beef. 

About: L’Avenue, a Paris restaurant popular with celebrities like KKW  and Rihanna. Just a few steps from the grand Plaza Athenée hotel with its top designer boutiques, L’Avenue is the go-to eaterie for big spenders– and probably one of the blandest restaurants in Paris. Food: Local cuisine, French, European, Vegetarian Friendly, Vegan Options

About: Traditional French Brasserie in Paris. Just steps away from Place de l’Etoile and the most beautiful avenue in the world, Chez André, in the heart of what’s known as the “Golden Triangle”, is where business, luxury, fashion and the press all meet.

About: MANKO-PARIS, A PERUVIAN RESTAURANT – For centuries, Peruvian Cuisine has been inspired from every Cultures in the world. Influences from Europe, Japan, China and Africa have blended with the ancient Andean Culture and the exuberance of the Amazon, giving birth to a unique world of flavors, revealed and shared today. This is how Peruvian Food is celebrated and this is how Manko arrived in Paris.

About: Set in a beautiful room, well regarded oulet of the BeefBar chain. Beautiful + trendy.

About: The young chef, Alexis Tadic, offers a lively menu and instant, combining traditional dishes revisited with some Italian or exotic flavors. Christophe Michalak, world champion pastry, has made a selection of his best creations and delicious treats.

Hotel:

About: An art deco landmark starring iconic views and Michelin Dining. Nestled in the Golden Triangle of Paris, just off the historic Champs-Elysees.

9th ARRONDISSEMENT

Dining:

About: Offers classic bistro cuisine where taste is at the centre of everything. Presenting slate dishes gives the chef all his creativity. 

About: Offers a slate according to the products of the market. They are constantly looking for good producers to make you rediscover the French terroir.

About: (Italian, instagrammable, lot lot lot of people) Pink Mamma is a big and warm trattoria on 4 floors where we grill 1kg T-Bone steak and 1.1kg Tomahawk steak on a 3 meter long barbecue ( size does matter). 

About: Located on the top of the Printemps department store, the view is insane.  A 500m2 rooftop cocktail bar and restaurant, perched on the top floor of the shopping center Printemps Haussmann, Men’s Store. Lush and garden like, with ‘summerish’ lounge sofas and dining tables, the rooftop terrace offers a magnificent 360° view of Paris.

Shopping:

About: One of the world’s leading department stores for fashion, luxury & beauty.

To Visit:

About: Italian-style opera house with ceiling painted by Chagall & library museum in 19th-century building.

10th ARRONDISSEMENT

Bakeries & Cafés:

About: This traditional bakery with an exquisite interior from 1889 is famed for its naturally leavened bread, orange-blossom brioche and escargots (scroll-like ‘snails’) in four sweet flavours.

About: Takes its cues from a Melbourne-style cafe…no need to put up with lousy French coffee anymore.  They have two locations, both on the same street, one at number 5 (pancakes, eggs & sides, daily specials, specialty coffee and craft beer) and one at number 19(seasonal breakfast sharing plates, plats du jour, specialty coffee and natural wines).

About: Grab a croque madam and picnic with the locals along the Canal Saint Martin

11th ARRONDISSEMENT

Dining:

Bistrot Paul Bert

Location: 18, Rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris
Tel: +33 1 43 72 24 01
Website: https://bistrotpaulbert.fr/en/home/
Hours: Tuesday – Saturday 12PM – 2PM and 7:30PM – 11PM

About: A Michelin star restaurant offering classic French cuisine and an interesting wine list

13th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurant:

About: It is a fun concept, very lively the evening like a bit party: it is the biggest restaurant in Europe. At the southern end of start-up campus Station F, immense La Felicità (Italian for ‘happiness’) sprawls over 4500 sq metres, with 1000 seats, five kitchens and three bars across a series of spaces including train carriages that reflect the building’s origins as a railway depot. Styled as a ‘food market’, it specialises in pizzas and pastas made from Italian produce. No reservations. Order ahead in the app to avoid a queue.

14th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurants:

About: Since 1927 La Brasserie La Coupole has been a symbol of the history of Montparnasse. In an art deco decor, listed as a historical heritage, the Chef offers essential dishes from the great Parisian Brasseries such as the Grenoble-style stripe, the real pepper steak and the seafood platters. This Art Deco brasserie, famous for its painted dome, offers creative French & seasonal cuisine.

About: Lobster, seafood platters & bouillabaisse at an ornate, art deco brasserie with a glass veranda. Splurge and have the incredible Sole Meuniere.

15th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurant:

About: La Plage Parisienne offers a real getaway on the Seine, quai de Javel in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. Facing the Statue of Liberty, the Eiffel Tower and the shimmering ripples of the Seine in the line of sight, the new address Beaumarly, Gilbert & Thierry Costes revisits the spirit of the guinguettes of yesteryear with sweeping strokes of modernity. In a colorful Roaring Twenties decor by Martin Brudnizki, cuisine from the water’s edge can be enjoyed in an atmosphere infused with good musical vibes.

Museum:

About: Art museum with the studio, garden & house of Antoine Bourdelle, Rodin’s pupil, & many of his works.

16th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurants:

About: Beautiful 20s style interiors, great possible view of the Eiffel Tower, love a more lavish dinner here. Monsieur Bleu is a chic French-style brasserie that aims to meet the varied needs of its customers. The key words of this unusual and unique address: taste and respect for the seasonality of products.

About: Dine in front of the Eiffel Tower. Decoration by Joseph Dirand. Girafe is the restaurant of the summer in Paris.

To Visit:

About: Museum featuring modern & contemporary art in a unique building with an auditorium & roof terraces.

About: The life & fashions of iconic designer, Yves Saint Laurent, are displayed at this chic museum.

Hotel:

About: The most particular of Parisian Hotels. Built in the nineteenth century on the park of the first aerodrome of Paris, this magnificent neo-classical house underwent an exciting refresh in 2020.

18th ARRONDISSEMENT

Restaurant:

About: An amazing panoramic terrace nestled on the butte Montmartre, perched on the 7th floor of Terrass Hotel. Up there, an indoor bar restaurant, plus an outdoor bar with swings

To Visit:

About: Set in the 18th arrondissement, the charming hilltop Montmartre district (also known as “La Butte”) is a former artists’ village once inhabited by Picasso and Dalí, and home to the domed Sacré-Cœur basilica. There are sweeping views of the city from its steep, winding streets, while the iconic Moulin Rouge cabaret below draws tourists and nightclubbers. Retro-cool bars and eateries dot the edgy Lamarck area.